I'm going to try to talk you into going into Waikíkí.

Yeah, yeah, I know, traffic, parking, prices.

But there's this little place right at the edge of Waikíkí, where you don't have to deal with much traffic, the parking is cheap and the prices are more than reasonable.

And then there's the food.

It's called Cafe Hula Girl, and though it sounds touristy, and I won't deny you have to do a little mental arithmetic to find it, once you do, the eatin' is easy and very local-friendly.

Here's what you do. Go into Waikiki via McCully, stay in the right lane. As soon as you cross the Ala Wai Canal, turn right on Ala Wai and get in the left lane. (This is the mental arithmetic part.) Go past the first entrance to the Waikiki Gateway building, and look for the second entrance, where the sign says Shops and Restaurants. Turn left into the parking lot. Find a space. It'll cost you just $1 an hour. Walk mauka through the building to Kalakaua; turn right, and you're there.

The restaurant is cozy, with just maybe a half-dozen tables and a maximum of 30 seats. It's a former Internet cafe tucked into the bottom of a high-rise.

But this is a Little Engine that Could kind of place — with better-than-they-ought-to-be ideas, and a chef with good instincts and deep understanding of the Island palate.

He is Merle Mariano, 45, born and raised in Palama Settlement, Leilehua '82, a veteran of the culinary service in the military, graduate of Gros Bonnet (2001), with experience that ranges from Sam Choy's Diamond Head to the Four Seasons Hualalai. His philosophy: classic French technique and "all the fresh local ingredients I can get my hands on."

So you order a simple soup and sandwich lunch, and you get a meal that would make Campbell's weep with envy: a viscous bowl of scarlet, mmm-mmm-good tomato soup, with ribbons of basil puree laced over the top, as thick and satisfying as Grandma's hug. The sandwich — petite but by no means stingy — is composed of a chicken breast lathered in a delicious sauce, nestled in greens on a chewy ciabatta-style roll. You slurp. You munch. You're happy.

Then there's dinner. At night, the bedroom-size space takes on an air of romance with black tablecloths and elegant formal centerpieces. (But they do many private events, so be sure to check ahead and reserve a space, or you may have searched out that parking space only to be disappointed.)

My husband and I tried two signature dishes: short ribs and a mahi fillet. Even though, because of a scheduling conflict, we had to take the food as takeout, it was a treat.

The braised boneless short ribs ($13), which fall apart at the first touch of a fork, are heavily scented with the beloved and familiar scent of star anise and Chinese five-spice. They are served with a crisp salad in Mariano's beautifully acid-to-sugar-balanced raspberry vinaigrette, rice and grilled vegetables.

The mahi mahi was moist, even after being transported to our home, lightly bathed in an oyster beurre blanc, with a gentle crusting of herbs. It, too, is served with salad, rice and grilled vegetables. In a later interview, Mariano explained to me that the sauce is composed only of wine, cream, butter and oyster sauce; it's a recipe I firmly intend to get and use.

Restaurant manager George Huffman said his company took over the space last June, but gradually transformed it, until, in January, it became Cafe Hula Girl.

One Hula Girl feature is a monthly guest chef series, focusing primarily on chefs who may not be well known outside of their own kitchens. Kind of Alan Wong's Next Generation Series, but a lot cheaper. They've had Roy Wong (formerly of E&O Trading Co.), Sammy Chavez (a Latin fusion chef) and Zachary Sato of Azure. Next up is Sean Priester of Top of the Waikiki on Saturday. Now they have chefs coming to them: the chefs do a tasting menu for the restaurant staff and, if approved, create a fixed-price dinner ($35). That, in fact, is how Mariano landed his job there. It's got some buzz going on Internet sites.

Another Hula Girl feature is the Sunday brunch, which, in a Waikíkí rarity, is a Hawaiian buffet: house-made laulau, kalua pig, chicken long rice, lomi salmon, poi when they can get it, onion and salt and sweet potato, just like you'd get at a home party. All for $15.99. The Hawaiian brunch started the week before last.

Huffman, a veteran of numerous food and beverage positions, including the Sheraton chain, Captain Jack's, Rusty Harpoon and also a Tehati veteran, wants to strike a balance between sophisticated food, local-friendly prices and events that keep people coming back.

"I feel momentum," he said.

So did I. And a happy tummy.