Remember what the streets of Chinatown looked like on occasional Fridays in 2003, when the inner-city art walk known as First Friday became the can't-miss event of the month?

The sidewalks teemed with urban sophisticates talking about art and dipping in and out of galleries that were, for this one night, open after sunset, thereby elevating them from stodgy, quasi-museums to cool after-dark enclaves of creativity and expression.

Remember?

Sure, the hype died down a bit for a minute there, as hype often does, but at 5:30 p.m. at last month's First Friday, it was as if no time had passed at all.

The streets were again crawling with people, which could only mean one thing: While we weren't looking, First Friday had undergone a scene infusion.

When it first started, First Friday was essentially an art gallery crawl. Now it's evolved into something that still resembles its old self, but with an extra layer of cool.

Art is still the tie that binds First Friday events, but that's not all there is to see. A number of new venues have joined the party over the last six months, and the result is a super eclectic, and ever vibrant, co-op of art, food, drink and fashion events that's more like a hip street festival than anything else.

This is your guide to the new First Friday. If it's new on the scene, it's on this list. You can hit every spot on the map tonight. Start at No. 1, "Shop, Bop & Grind" on Chaplain Lane and end at No. 6, Otto Cake, on Smith Street, also known as Sweet Street.

Let the walking, shopping, eating and drinking begin.

1. SHOP, BOP & GRIND

Where to find it: Shop, Bop & Grind (www.myspace.com/swapandbop) happens on Chaplain Lane, between Bethel Street and Fort Street Mall between 6 and 9 p.m. It occupies the short stretch of street in front of the Mercury Bar.

What it's all about: This event, which is a tidy little street fest in its own right, is where local vendors sell their ultra-hip, one-of-a-kind goods. You'll find everything from jewelry to designer shoes and T-shirts to vintage fashion to made-to-order hair accessories. KTUH DJs provide the soundtrack.

Who goes: "Sometimes I see only very specific kinds of people walking into the art galleries; or very specific kinds of people heading for their favorite bars, but the cool thing about being outside in the lane is that everyone walks by, and everyone stops," said Catwings, the mono-monikered founder of Shop, Bop & Grind, who is also a member of the Cherry Blossom Cabaret burlesque troupe. "People are enticed by the sound of the music and by the smell of the food."

Food and drink? Hole in the Wall (532-9911), a take-out eatery whose address happens to be on Chaplain Lane, provides good, cheap grinds — get a barbecue pork plate for $3.

Happening tonight: Vendors will be selling clothing and accessories specifically designed for Halloween.

2. BLACK CAT TATTOO STUDIO

Where to find it: Black Cat (524-7580, www.blackcatchinatown.com) is just around the corner from Chaplain Lane at 1157 Bethel St. The First Friday party kicks off at 5 p.m. and doesn't quit until about 2 a.m.

What it's all about: On every other day, it's a tattoo parlor; on First Fridays it's an art gallery, live music venue and cocktail bar, too.

Who goes: "It's funny because when I look at pictures of the First Friday parties, I'll see a group of old ladies, all dressed up and looking nice, and then right next to them is a guy with tattoos and a Mohawk," said Bobby Wald, co-owner of Black Cat. Wald said their goal is to attract people who might not otherwise have reason to enter a tattoo parlor. He said 300 to 500 people come through Black Cat on First Fridays.

Food and drink? On First Fridays, Black Cat serves complimentary cocktails.

Happening tonight: For the first time on a First Friday, Black Cat will also be functioning as a tattoo parlor. Two tattoo artists will be busy inking customers.

3. SOHO MIXED MEDIA BAR

Where to find it: SoHo (www.sohohi.com) opened in June in the old Club Pauahi space at 80 S. Pauahi St. and Fort Street Mall.

What it's all about: At SoHo, it's always about the cool kids. But on First Fridays, owner Daniel Gray takes it to another level by bringing in guest musical talent and artists.

Who goes: SoHo is the quintessential Chinatown hangout. It's the home of '80s parties and hipsters in leggings. If you've seen them at Loft, you'll see them at SoHo.

Food and drink? There are two full bars that keep the drinks coming, and there's talk of a pupu menu coming soon. Happy hour goes until 9 p.m. on First Fridays.

Happening tonight: Artists Isidra Suga and Chanel Tanaka will show their work, and local hip-hop outfit The Deadbeats will be performing.

4. HAWAII INSTITUTE OF HAIR DESIGN

Where to find it: The Institute of Hair Design (533-6596, www.hihdhawaii.net) is at 1128 Nu'uanu Ave., across from Indigo. Its First Friday event is held from 5 to 9 p.m.

What it's all about: On First Fridays, it's not just about hair here — the daytime beauty school transforms into an after-hours eye-candy bar, complete with fashion and hair models and cocktails. Body painting and hair demonstrations are the art at this venue.

Who goes: The well-dressed who like their sophistication with a touch of rainbow-colored face paint.

Food and drink? There's plenty to drink. Hungry? Hold out for the next stop on the list.

Happening tonight: Watch the Institute students do amazing things with hair and a can of hairspray. New coifs require an appointment.

5. THE MANIFEST

Where to find it: The Manifest is the latest space to open on Hotel Street. It's across from Bar 35 at 32 N. Hotel St.

What it's all about: As a bar, The Manifest (mani festhawaii.com) is already a Friday night destination, and First Friday is no different. There's a happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. with drinks from $3.50.

Who goes: "I want anyone here who wants to be here," said owner Brandon Reid.

Food and drink? On First Fridays, Reid sets up a hot dog cart on the street outside his bar "to add to the whole street-festival atmosphere," he said. Get the "Chi-town," a Chicago-style dog, or the "Supersonic," a Seattle-style dog with cream cheese and onions for $5. Need a beer with that? Bring your dog with you into The Manifest, and eat, drink and, well, you know the rest. The hot dog cart is open from 6 p.m. to 2:30 a.m. on First Fridays.

Happening tonight: Reid will be mixing mojitos.

6. INTO

Where to find it: Into (536-2211, www.intohonolulu.com) is next door to The Manifest at 40 N. Hotel St.

What it's all about: Into is making the transition from home decor retailer to a combination retail space-cocktail lounge. Until it has morphed completely, owner Alan Carel is using his store to host swanky First Friday soirees from 5 to midnight with specialty cocktails and what he calls "living windows," or live mannequins posing as art pieces. Store merchandise is cleared to make space for a lounge area where people can sip and rub shoulders.

Who goes: "It seems like the people who come, come to see and be seen. It's a very sort of posh crowd," said Cyrina Hadad Ralya, Into's promotions director.

Food and drink? Into serves specialty cocktails on First Fridays.

Happening tonight: Into will be offering cocktails made with Kai Vodka for a suggested donation of $6, to benefit Meals on Wheels.

7. OTTO CAKE

Where to find it: A few steps removed from the hub of First Friday activity, Otto Cake (834-6886, www.ottocake.com) is at 1160 Smith St., between Beretania and Pauahi.

What it's all about: At Otto Cake, it's all about owner Otto's magnificent cheesecake that comes in a daily rotating menu of 86 flavors. Get a slice or a whole pie. Otto is open on Fridays until 10 p.m. On First Fridays, the walls of his shop serve as a gallery for local artists.

Who goes: "Everyone who eats," Otto said.

Food and drink? Besides his cheesecake, Otto also bakes brownies, coffee cake and cupcakes, plus he pulls a mean espresso.

Happening tonight: Otto will unveil Otto Fries, baked french fries that taste great and are easy on the thighs.