Cooling off on the coast
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• Photo gallery: Coastal views of Oahu
By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Staff Writer
Grow up by the ocean, any ocean, and the pleasure of walking its shoreline never disappears.
Pounding surf, wheeling birds and offshore breezes invigorate and on Oahu are a reminder that the next land mass might be as far as Alaska or as close as Molokai.
November's cooler weather is a chance to do some coastal walking. However, shade can still be in short supply, too, so it's best to remember the essentials: a wide-brim hat, comfortable footwear, sunscreen and plenty of water.
Here are three family walks on Oahu where you can look for green sea turtles, whale spouts, odd shells, or simply enjoy the spectacle of winter waves on an easy weekend outing.
• Kahuku coastal walk, five miles, two hours
Between Kahuku Golf Course and Turtle Bay Resort lies a long stretch of coastline frequented only by fishermen and beachcombers. There is no formal trail, but the long, white sandy beach fronts high sand dunes and shoreline naupaka vegetation, which makes for easy walking.
Access: Leave the car in Kahuku at the Puuluana Road junction with Kalanianaole Highway (the only stop light in town), and walk toward the ocean. Turn left at the back of Kahuku Golf Course and join the coastline from behind the Japanese cemetery .
Once on the dunes, head north. Be prepared to wade across a shallow channel and continue on past the old Kahuku landing strip and airfield behind Hanakailio beach. Area residents call this Marconi Beach, named for the American Marconi Co. The company established wireless communications on Oahu, Hawaii and Maui in 1902 and built a receiving unit of towers on sand dunes at Kahuku.
Between the coast and the highway, the James Campbell Wildlife Refuge provides wetland habitat for more than 100 species of birds, including four of Hawaii's six endangered species of waterbirds.
During the nonbreeding season, October to late February, the wildlife refuge offers twice-weekly guided tours for wildlife viewing and photography, by reservation only at 637-6330. Migrating shorebirds and waterfowl begin arriving in the fall and stay throughout the winter on the refuge's wetland edges and open water areas. The refuge is closed the remainder of the year to provide undisturbed habitat for ae'o breeding season.
Still ahead, Kahuku Point, the northernmost point on Oahu, juts into the ocean. Around the point, Kaihalulu's white sand beach curves gently to the welcome shade of ironwood trees at Turtle Bay Resort.
The Circle Island Bus No. 56 stops at the resort. Catch it back to your car in Kahuku or use it to reach the coastal areas.
Refreshment: Hang Ten Bar and Grill, Turtle Bay Resort.
• Makapuu State Wayside, two miles round-trip, one hour
Makapuu Lighthouse was established on the easternmost point of Oahu 100 years ago. Makapuu State Wayside Park sits on the sea cliffs above the lighthouse. At 500 feet above sea level, the park's observation bunkers are a prime place to clamber to and spot migrating humpback whales between November and March.
Two walks lead to the Makapuu Lighthouse ("bulging eye") overlook: The mile-long, bracing walk along the paved Coast Guard road is one of the most popular family walks on the island. Walkers park and set off from the spacious car park off Kalanianaole Highway.
An alternate route is a short scenic loop hike that climbs the cliffs from Makapuu Lookout car park. The trail heads safely but quite steeply up the cliff roughly following a water pipe and utility line before winding around the front of the cliff and down to meet the paved road that leads to the lighthouse overlook.
Refreshments: Hawaii Kai Shopping Center nearby offers plenty of choices for lunch, including ChachaCha Salseria.
• Kaena Point State Park, five miles round-trip from Mokulia, two hours
Walking to Kaena Point, Oahu's westernmost tip, the trail is rocky and sandy, but the gradient is flat and it's an easy walk from Mokulia to the Kaena Point Passing Light where the view down the Waianae side of the island is spectacular.
Begin your walk on the dirt road as it follows the coastline and gradually curves to the left along the base of the Waianae Mountains. Leave the road and head for the light at the tip of the point, making sure to stay on established trails that crisscross the dunes, and away from bird-nesting areas.
In "The Beaches of Oahu," author John Clark writes, "During winter months Kaena has the largest, most perfectly shaped big waves anywhere in Hawaii. The waves, which reach average heights of thirty to forty feet, are utterly awe-inspiring."
In Hawaiian, Kaena means "red hot or glowing." Clark says that may refer to the point's beautiful sunsets, but note that the entire trail is without shade, so water, sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses are essential. Bring binoculars for bird and whale watching.
Trail access is from the end of the road beyond Dillingham Airfield and Mokulia Beach Park.
Refreshments: Set off early in the day and hop back to Haleiwa for lunch.