Patricia Cheesman (aka Naenna) has been living with cosmic creatures in a world of heavenly stories for more than 30 years. These stories, the cultural heritage of the Lao Tai (a people living in the mountainous northeast of the Lao People's Democratic Republic), are woven by women and interweave two belief systems. Animist and Buddhist traditions are joined in their silk and cotton patterns that sing of the afterlife — represented by symbols of serpents, river dragons, elephants, lotuses, hooks, lanterns, keys, butterflies and birds.

Cheesman, guest curator of the antique textiles in a new East-West Center gallery exhibit, is a dedicated advocate of women, the arts and the environment.

Born in Singapore and raised in North Borneo, Cheesman studied ceramics in England. It was ceramics that originally brought her to Laos between 1973 and 1981 to develop projects for the United Nations. But it was textiles that became her life's passion.

While living in Laos, she gained a knowledge of weaving and, after 10 years of studying the customs and traditional textiles of Laos and Thailand, wrote her first book, "Lao Textiles: Ancient Symbols, Living Art." She has since published 10 books and articles on the subject.

In 1985, Cheesman settled in Thailand and formed Weavers For the Environment, or WFE, a women's group focused on "eco textiles" to improve conditions for weavers, promote women's status and use environmentally friendly dyeing methods. Cheesman founded Studio Naenna Textiles Gallery in Chiang Mai that same year. The gallery represents local weavers, along with textile designs by Cheesman and her daughters, and is a pilot project for training other small weaving groups in environmentally-friendly dyeing methods, waste-water systems and natural dyes.

She also teaches Thai textiles, ceramics and design courses at Chiang Mai and Thammasat universities in Thailand, and has been a guest lecturer at universities, research institutes and museums in England, Australia, Laos and the United States.

Between packing and getting ready to get on a plane from Thailand, Cheesman answered questions by e-mail.

Q. How did you get interested in Lao textiles in the first place?

A. I happened to be in Laos during the revolution in 1975 when the Pathet Lao troops and their families moved into Vientiane. I was living there and working for the United Nations in ceramic development projects. I was trained as a potter, but could not avoid recognizing the importance and beauty of the Lao heirloom weaving looms that these families were selling to survive. I have been studying them ever since.

Q. Your daughter Lamorna is also involved in Studio Naenna. Is she a weaver/dyer as well? Did you pass your love of textiles down to your daughters, as Lao mothers do?

A. Morna loves textiles and has become very knowledgeable about the processes. She doesn't weave or dye herself, but does the clothing designs and works closely with and manages the weavers. She is now the director of Studio Naenna. Sita, my granddaughter, will be coming with us to Hawai'i. She is the next generation to love textiles! The featured weaver for the exhibit is my eldest Laotian daughter, Dalounny Phonsouny "Aire" Carroll.

Q. Aire's work and those of Studio Naenna will be on sale during the lecture and demonstrations at the East-West Center Gallery. What kinds of things are you bringing to sell?

A. We will have amazing textiles similar to the antique pieces in the exhibition. Many are woven silks with natural dyes in complex cosmic creature patterns. We will also have silk and cotton scarves and shawls made by the WFE group at reasonable prices. Many are made with natural indigo, a treasured resource. There are also some lovely wall hangings by master weaver Viroy Nanthaphoom, one of the first weavers to join the WFE — now a master weaver. She has trained 44 other women.

Q. Do you operate your gallery under fair trade ethical standards?

A. Yes, we give fair rates for the skilled labor of weaving and share the profits. We offer interest-free loans to our group and support their needs — such as time to participate in cultural events in their village, and time off for nurturing their babies.

Q. Was it difficult working with the governments of Laos, Cambodia and Thailand in founding the Weavers For the Environment group and your gallery?

A. I have not experienced problems with any of the governments. It has been a naturally slow process, but small is beautiful.

Q. What is the situation today?

A. The economic situation is drastic for everyone and our weavers are feeling the pinch, since sales are down. Many are planting more fields and doing supplementary farming to support their families.

Q. What do you hope people will take away from the exhibit?

A. I hope people will feel the joy and fun of the exhibit and at the same time appreciate the depth of work involved in making these textiles. The knowledge that rural women have is immense and very ancient. This wisdom is from the earth, the longings of all people for a spiritual connection and a feeling of security and happiness.