Riding the escalator to the second floor of Shirokiya transports diners to a Japanese food oasis, modeled after the food basements of department stores in Japan.

Behind glass counters, chefs deftly turn a blanket of batter into octopus balls, wrap rows of shrimp musubi, and fry myriad items in tempura batter, all while sales clerks greet a crush of hungry customers.

During the peak holiday shopping season, Shirokiya was filled with freshly prepared, edible treats from healthy to greasy. We stopped by to see chefs whip up all sorts of things, from entire meals to quick bites. And what we found was that watching was as much fun as eating. Well ... almost.

Pictured above is the ika nanban, or seasoned cuttlefish from Usagiya ($15.50 a pound). It's tender, fried in a light, seasoned batter and worth a taste. Visit Metromix (www.honolulu.metromix.com) for a complete look at Shirokiya's delicious eats.