A request for fresh pineapple pie as it was made by the Dough Boys has finally been answered: a former Dough Boy who calls himself Baker Bob found it in one of my favorite resource books, "Oldies But Goodies, Vol. 1," a Kamehameha Schools alumni cookbook dated 1983, produced by Na Pua Mae'ole O Kamehameha Chapter.

Another cornerstone of my local cookbook library, the "Kalahikiola Cook Book" from the Congregational church of that name in Kohala, offers the very same recipe except that theirs calls for 2 eggs. As much as I trust the recipes in this book, I was worried that, with, with a filling this watery, too few eggs might mean the filing wouldn't set. I opted for three.

Fresh pineapple is important to this recipe; don't use canned, which has a slightly different texture and may have a great deal more juice. I bought a Del Monte pineapple, much cheaper (89 cents a pound) and more tart than a Maui Gold (more than $1 a pound). My reasoning: These old recipes were designed for the pineapples of yesteryear, which were rather tart. With the new, low-acid pineapple varieties, you need to cut back on the sugar, but that presents another problem: Will the filling gel properly if you tamper with the sugar-egg-flour-fruit balance? I didn't want to take the chance.

To prepare pineapple, slice away crown and bottom and cut down sides deeply enough to remove most eyes. Pare away any remaining eyes or green or brown parts. Slice pineapple in half lengthwise. Slice one-half thinly, then chop into small pieces. Place these in a measuring cup and drain any juice from the cutting board into it. Half a pineapple will yield about 2 cups; slice more if you need it. Reserve remainder for another use. The recipe calls for butter to enrich the filling; I forgot to add it, and the result was still delicious, especially hot with ice cream.

FRESH PINEAPPLE PIE