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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, November 16, 2008

Training offers lessons in culture

 •  Female U.S. soldiers' role in Iraq war profiled

By Chelsea J. Carter
Associated Press

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

An Afghan soldier, second from left, and U.S. Marines react to an explosion during an exercise in a mock Afghan village at the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center in the Mojave Desert. The training also focuses on helping U.S. troops learn local culture and customs.

Photos by RIC FRANCIS | Associated Press

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

U.S. Marine Pfc. Jesse Young uses the scope on his weapon to survey the terrain in a mock Afghan village. The desert training mimics the program used for deployments to Iraq.

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TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. — Marine Capt. Mike Hoffman sat on the floor of a shack with an Afghan mullah and village elders and accepted a meager meal as he sought their help in the fight against the Taliban.

It was loud and confusing as he tried to listen to them debate what the town needed most — water, electricity, a police station.

"I want to hear everything you have to say. But I can only understand one of you at a time," Hoffman said through a translator.

Hoffman would later learn from culture and language instructors that he had made a serious error by seeming to dishonor the elders by quieting the debate. That could make villagers refuse to aid his troops — or even aid Taliban insurgents.

But this was not Afghanistan. And on this day there would be no retaliation. This was just practice.

The training takes place in the Mojave Desert at the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center. It aims to give troops deploying to Afghanistan a preview of not only the terrain but also the culture and customs. Helping out with the training are native Afghans under contract with the military.

"When the Marines first come here, they don't know anything," said Ahmed Mansur, one of the Afghan trainers. "They don't know how to talk to the village elder. They don't know they can't search the mosque. They don't know you can never talk to a woman."

The program takes a page from the Marine Corps' Iraqi program, which features towns filled with role players who replicate Iraqi life.

Maj. Matt Good, the operations officer for urban warfare training at the base, said events occurring in Afghanistan — from car bombings to Taliban attacks on outposts — are put immediately into the combat training scenarios.

Useful, too, is the American experience with Afghan villagers, many of whom have either had no previous contact with coalition troops or have been made promises by troops that never came to fruition.

So the training exposes Marines to everything from drinking tea with village elders to learning how to search people.

"If we don't have street credibility, we are much less effective," Good said.

The village, known as Doab, isn't modeled on any specific place. But it includes what Marines might find in a typical village in southern Afghanistan, such as a mosque and farm houses and bullet-riddled, burnt-out cars that litter the streets.

At one point in the training, Hoffman walked through the village surrounded by his men, but without his rifle. It was something he would have done in an Iraqi village to show townspeople he felt secure. But in Afghanistan, trainers told him, it makes him a target for insurgents.

"You're going to see mistakes here. We need to make mistakes so we can learn from them," said Hoffman, 31, of Naperville, Ill.