Thanksgiving, with the table as its centerpiece, presents a lot of challenges to the home cook — among them, the fact that most of us never prepare the holiday's signature dishes at any other time. It's hard to be good at something you don't do often. Here's help for avoiding common problems, such as:

TURKEY THAT'S NOT THAWED

• The only safe way to deal with a solidly frozen turkey at T-minus 24 hours and counting is to place it in a clean sink, still fully wrapped in original packaging. Fill sink with cool tap water (NOT hot). Empty sink and refill every half hour for about seven hours for a 12-pound turkey, as much as 11 hours for a 22-pound turkey.

• Option 2: Run out to the grocery or deli right now.

DRY, STRINGY TURKEY:

• Brine defrosted turkey: Mix 1 cup table salt with 2 gallons water (or 2 cups and 3 gallons, if the turkey is huge) in a large, clean picnic cooler. After four hours, drain, rinse, pat completely dry and refrigerate overnight uncovered (called "air-drying"). Roast as usual tomorrow. This technique creates crisp skin and tender meat.

• If you do not brine and air-dry, push soft butter under breast skin; baste early in cooking with broth and drippings; stop basting late in cooking.

• Start the turkey breast side down on a V-rack; after an hour, flip (with folded kitchen towels in both hands, grab the bird firmly on either side and turn over; get help with really large turkeys).

• Cover loosely with heavy-duty foil during first two hours. Or use a roasting bag if you don't care about browned skin.

• Do not stuff; stuffing absorbs juices. Instead, lightly fill cavity with roughly chopped vegetables (onion, celery, leeks, shallots), fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, sage), fruit (lemon, tart apple), which give off flavor and moisture.

• Rest meat, loosely covered in a tent of foil, 25-30 minutes before carving. (Retains juices, prevents burned fingers while carving.)

BAD MASHED POTATOES:

• Use russets (not new potatoes); peel but do not cut into pieces (potatoes get watery). Drain and mash while hot.

• Reserve some starchy potato boiling water — one-half cup or so; add to mashed potatoes, gently mix, then add softened butter, warm milk or cream, salt and pepper to taste.

• If you like light-as-air mashed potatoes, use a ricer (which forces boiled potatoes through tiny holes).

• If you prefer a slightly more textured and less light mashed potato, use a hand masher.

NOT-SO-GREAT GRAVY:

• Flavorful gravy is all in the stock, but from-scratch takes time. To "doctor" canned broth: Combine four (12-ounce) cans chicken broth, 1 cup dry white wine, 3 cups roughly cut vegetables (onion, carrot, celery, mushrooms, green onion tops, leeks), one bay leaf, five black peppercorns, one-half bunch parsley, one-fourth teaspoon dried thyme. Boil, turn down heat, and simmer one to two hours to reduce.

• Quick gravy: Melt 3 tablespoons melted butter; whisk in 3 tablespoons flour. Place turkey roasting pan, with drippings, on a burner over medium-high heat; pour 1 cup red or white wine or stock (above) into pan and cook, scraping up browned bits. Whisk in blended flour and butter; cook five minutes. Whisk in stock to desired volume; simmer until slightly thickened. Taste, add salt and pepper. Serve in warmed gravy boat or pitcher.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU HAVE TOO LITTLE TIME:

• Use store-bought goods — pies, cranberry sauce or chutney, and even ready-made mashed potatoes (so long as you make the gravy, who'll care?).

• Reduce the menu to essentials — turkey, gravy, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce — whatever your family just has to have.

• Roast or bake mixed vegetables rather than cooking them individually.

• Release the reins — ask family or friends to contribute.

TOO LITTLE SPACE

• Clean and sanitize cooler(s). Store turkey in one, and keep produce and other non-delicate foods in others. Keep dairy foods and eggs in refrigerator. Guard against cross-contamination by raw meat or fish juices.

• Barbecue, grill or deep-fry turkey, or serve store-bought or catered, so you can use the oven for other foods.

NOT SURE HOW TO COOK THE TURKEY

Here are some options, assuming a 10-14 pound turkey; giblets, etc. removed; lightly oiled or buttered; unstuffed

• Conventional, whole bird; 325 degrees, 15 minutes per pound

• High-heat, butterflied (cut down alongside backbone, cut out rib plates, with breast side up use rolling pin or meat pounder to flatten, arrange on broiling rack with legs tied together in center; 450 degrees one and one-half to two hours)

• Bird in bag, heat-proof bags guarantee falls-off-the bone moistness, but pale, soft skin; roast as conventional method

• Deep fried, Cajun-style whole bird fried in bubbling peanut oil (requires equipment and safety precautions); about three minutes per pound

• Barbecue or grill, whole bird, in large, heavy-gauge disposable foil pan; in covered, kettle-style grill with briquets at white-ash stage; 11-13 minutes per pound

FUMBLING WITH THE VEGETABLES

• Prep vegetables (peel, trim, cut into even-sized 1-inch chunks). Scatter on foil-lined, lightly oiled rimmed baking pan (may use nonstick spray). Drizzle lightly with oil or melted butter or spray with butter-flavored nonstick spray, if desired. Flavor with salt, pepper, garlic, spices or minced herbs. Toss or stir to distribute flavorings.

As soon as the turkey is out, increase oven heat to 475 degrees. Roast vegetables, stirring the mixture once or twice, until edges are browned and vegetables are tender, about 15-20 minutes. Suggested vegetables: squash, sweet potatoes or yams, potatoes, green beans, asparagus, beets, carrots, onions, cauliflower, a scattering of corn kernels, jicama, parsnips.

Sources: Butterball Turkey Talk-Line, Cook's Illustrated, Bon Appetit, Fine Cooking, Weber ... and Grandma

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