TASTE
Dishes from Mexico's culinary regions
| Going for the Gusto |
By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor
Chef Adriana Torres loves to share the recipes of her native Mexico, as she'll be doing in classes at Kapi'olani Community College. Here, she begins with the food she calls "Mexico's rice": tortillas.
On average, people in Mexico consume 265 pounds of tortillas a year, and tortillas account for the bulk of calories and protein among poorer people there, according to a Trade & Environment Database study.
Two pieces of equipment are key: a tortillera, or tortilla press, and a comal, a flat, heavy, cast iron griddle that is the perfect heat conductor for cooking tortillas. Both can be found at El Mercado de la Raza on Beretania Street, or from online sources such as MexGrocer.com, which sells a five-piece Tortilla Lovers Gift Pack (tortillera, 17-inch comal, tortilla storage container, sack of corn flour, cookbook) for $44.95 plus shipping. The comal needs to be seasoned to slick blackness before it's used. Never wash a comal with detergent; wipe it with a paper towel and scrub it with salt, Torres advised.
CORN TORTILLAS
Place the masa in a medium-size bowl and season with a generous pinch of salt. Pour in about half the water. Mix lightly with a fork, adding water a little at a time until the dough can be formed into a ball. Knead between your hands until dough is soft and pliant but not sticky.
Portion the dough into 8 evenly sized balls. Cover these with a damp towel while you work. Begin to heat the comal over medium-high heat, and place an inch or so of vegetable oil in the frying pan.
Cover both sides of your tortilla press with plastic to prevent sticking; Torres uses a couple of squares cut from a thin trash sack or gallon-size, resealable plastic bag. Place the ball of dough in the press and press to flatten very thin. Immediately place tortilla on the comal and cook until golden brown in spots but not burned; turn and fry on other side.
Makes 8 tortillas.
To make tostadas: Place cooked tortilla in hot oil in frying pan (oil should be heated through and shimmering); cook until puffed and golden brown. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve with salsa for dipping.
Sopes are a favorite Mexican dish, a sort of corn tortilla "pizza." They can be saucer-sized or smaller and may be either an entree or a snack. Like pizza, there are dozens of variations, but refried beans and cheese are usually at the heart of the dish. Two ingredients that will make your sopes more authentic are cheese and Mexican cream — a thick, shelf-stable bottled cream that adds a creamy richness to the dish; it's neither sweet nor savory. "It goes really well with salsa; the contrast kind of bring out the flavors of the chilies," Torres said. Aged mexican cheeses — queso anejo or cotija — add a sharp flavor rather like feta cheese. Check El Mercado de la Raza on Beretania Street.
SOPES
Divide masa into six and press to 1/8 inch — thicker than for a plain tortilla. Cook the sope on the preheated comal, turning once. When done, quickly flip it onto a cutting board and use your fingers (yes, it will be hot) to crimp up the sides to form a cazuela, or little rimmed "plate." Then, quickly fry sope in hot oil for a half a minute or so, just until golden. (Sopes can be placed in warm oven to hold while you finish the cooking.)
To serve, divide the beans, lettuce, cream, onion and cheese evenly among the six sopes, layering the ingredients in that order, and garnish with salsa.
Makes 6 servings:
Variations: Add chopped or ground meats, chopped tomatoes, vary the salsa or cheese.
Although she comes from Mexico City, Torres likes to cook the foods of all Mexico's culinary regions. The following recipe, from Acapulco on Mexico's west coast, is a classic — fresh mahimahi (called dorado in Mexico) in a lime-based salsa. Serrano chilies, small, smooth-skinned green chilies of considerable heat, are used for this dish. To diminish hotness, reduce chili or discard seeds and veins.
CEVICHE ACAPULCO
In a glass or porcelain bowl, cover the fish with lime juice and refrigerate for at least one hour, during which time the acid will "cook" the fish, turning it white.
Strain almost all the lime juice from the fish. Stir in onion, tomato, cilantro and Serrano chilies. Add olive oil and juice of one-half lime. Season to taste with salt, black pepper and oregano. Return bowl to refrigerator for at least an hour. Taste and adjust seasonings.
Serve ceviche in martini glasses garnished with thinly sliced avocado and chips on the side.
Makes 4 appetizer servings.
Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.