A while back I was telling my sister-in-law, who lives in Kansas, about Coral tuna — how, in my childhood, we probably ate tuna three or four times a week and it was always Coral brand, which was then canned here. I told her how, when I was researching The Advertiser 150th anniversary cookbook, Coral tuna was featured in a recipe almost every week during the 1950s and '60s.

These days, a lot of people are excited about the canned wahoo from the South Pacific; it's got great texture and excellent flavor.

Later, she sent me a recipe for a tuna casserole that her mother makes, saying she'd never had much luck with it. Made with a white sauce and whole eggs, it's supposed to set rather like a souffle, though not as light, of course. When I first tested the recipe, it wasn't all that interesting with only salt and pepper for flavoring. "Onions and capers," my husband said. "Parsley," I said. I also tinkered with the white-sauce proportions and added an additional egg.

Here's my version.

KANSAS BAKED TUNA CASSEROLE