Fill the bottom of a steamer (or a roasting pan fitted with a rack) with at least half an inch of water and bring to a boil. Cut the ginger into shreds by slicing it lengthwise into thin sheets; stack the sheets and slice lengthwise. Scatter half the ginger on a heat-proof plate or platter large enough to hold the whole fish.

Trim the dry ends of the green onion tops and then cut about 3 inches of green tops. Shred these lengthwise as thinly as possible. You should have about one-fourth cup of shredded green onion tops. Scatter half of the shredded onion tops over the ginger.

Lightly season the fish inside and out with salt and place it on the plate. Scatter the remaining ginger and green onion over the fish. Place the plate on the steamer rack and cover tightly. Cook until a knife easily penetrates the flesh and the top fillet begins to lift easily, 6 to 10 minutes depending on the size of the fish.

With the steamer still in place, drizzle soy sauce over the fish, mound pea shoots on top and drizzle with sesame oil. Cover and cook until pea shoots have barely wilted, about 1 minute. Remove steamer from the heat and let the fish stand, covered, for a few minutes before serving.

Makes 2-4 servings.

PAN-ROASTED FISH WITH PROSCIUTTO AND MUSHROOMS

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Melt the butter over medium heat in a large (13-inch) ovenproof skillet. Mince 2 slices of prosciutto and add to the butter. Cook until prosciutto starts to render its fat, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms give off their moisture, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and parsley, and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and cool slightly.

Season the fish inside and out with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the cooked mushrooms into the belly cavity of the fish, reserving the rest. Wrap the fish snugly in the remaining prosciutto slices, leaving the head exposed and with the middle of the slices sealing the belly. It will take 6 or 7 slices to enclose the fish.

Wind a length of butcher's twine around the fish to hold the prosciutto in place snugly. Inevitably, one side of the fish will have a more uniform wrapping of prosciutto than the other. This will be the presentation side, so knot string on the other side.

Clean the mushroom pan and return it to high heat. Add oil and when it is nearly smoking, place the fish in the pan, presentation-side down. Depending on the size of the pan, you may need to arrange the fish to make sure all of the prosciutto wrapping comes in contact with the heat. Sear until the prosciutto has darkened and begun to crisp, 3 to 5 minutes.

Using a wide spatula, carefully turn the fish over so the presentation side is up and cook another minute to crisp the prosciutto. Scatter the remaining mushrooms on both sides of the fish and place the skillet in the oven. Cook until a small knife penetrates the flesh easily, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Carefully transfer the fish to a warm platter. Use scissors to cut the string and remove it. Let stand a few minutes while scattering the mushrooms over the fish. Serve hot.

Makes 2-4 servings.

ROAST FISH STUFFED WITH LEMON AND ROSEMARY

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine garlic and olive oil and let sit to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain and discard garlic; set aside the oil.

Slice the potatoes lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick pieces and place in a baking dish with the onion. Drizzle 2 tablespoons garlic oil over potatoes and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and chopped rosemary. Stir to combine. Roast for 30 minutes without stirring.

Season the fish inside and out with salt and brush inside and out with the remaining garlic oil. Thinly slice and seed the lemon and place all but 2 or 3 slices in the cavity with the rosemary.

Stir the potatoes and place the fish on top. Arrange the remaining lemon slices on top of the fish and roast until a knife easily penetrates the flesh and the top fillet begins to lift easily, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Carefully transfer the fish to a warm platter. Let stand for a few minutes while arranging the potatoes on both sides and serve hot.

Makes 2-4 servings.