FOOD FOR THOUGHT By
Wanda A. Adams
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| Classic crab diversified |
With mangoes in grocery stores, at roadside stands and farmers' markets and even — occasionally! — on backyard trees, a reader who signs herself just "Lani" e-mailed to ask for a recipe for mango bread that ran in the Advertiser food section 10-plus years ago. "It was the best mango bread I've ever tasted," she writes.
Well, we've run a lot of mango bread recipes over the years, most in a standard formula: flour, sugar, leavenings and cinnamon combined with vegetable oil, eggs, diced mango and optional nuts, coconut, raisins, etc. I'm sharing the recipe below because it comes from a 1985 column by the late Maili Yardley, whose judgment I trusted. Maili rarely commented on the recipes she shared, but she annotated this: "This is a special treat!"
Some variations: I have found that using part brown sugar and part white sugar adds an additional layer of flavor and creates a moister crumb in quick breads, and you can even get away with cutting the sugar by a quarter. You could make this recipe with half Splenda, half sugar if you use sugar substitutes. Other recipes shared over the years used mac nuts instead of walnuts and raisins instead of coconut. One variation, from a cookbook called "Cooking With Hawaiian Mangoes" by Lee and Mae Keao, calls for a 6-ounce can of crushed pineapple, drained, and replaces coconut and raisins with pineapple. Although most quick-bread recipes use oil, one that sounds interestingly rich, from a 1990 Maili Yardley column, uses butter, brown and white sugars, vanilla and lemon extracts, evaporated milk and, for added texture, a half-cup of wheat germ along with raisins and nuts.
RAY'S SUPER MANGO BREAD
Lightly butter or grease two regular or four smaller loaf pans, or spray with cooking spray. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, cinnamon, sugar and salt. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add oil, eggs, mango and vanilla. Swiftly stir to combine. Add walnuts, coconut and raisins and stir just to combine; batter will be quite thick. Divide batter evenly between pans.
Allow to stand 20 minutes, then bake 60 minutes to 80 minutes at 350 degrees. Loaves are done when they spring back to touch and a toothpick emerges clean from the center of the loaf.
Makes two regular-size loaf pans, about 16 servings.
A tip: If you don't want to haul out the flour sifter or don't own one, just plop the dry ingredients into a screen mesh strainer and tap gently on the side with one hand until all the ingredients have passed through the mesh.
Send recipes and queries to Wanda A. Adams, Food Editor, Honolulu Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802. Fax: 525-8055. E-mail: wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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