TASTE
Dark soy sauce key to Shanghai food
| • | Shanghai tradition surviving for now |
By Evan Osnos
Chicago Tribune
The cooking of Shanghai is distinct from other Chinese regions. Here are some examples.
Shanghai dishes are often prepared with dark soy sauce and sugar. Look for dark soy sauce in Chinese markets. Regular soy sauce is not as intense but can be used as a substitute. For more Shanghai-style recipes, check out "Modern Asian Flavors" (Chronicle, $18.95), a new cookbook by Richard Wong, or "The Chinese Kitchen" (Morrow, $35) by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo.
The following is adapted from a recipe by Steve Miao, a Shanghai native and a chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in Shanghai, who serves the ribs as an appetizer either warm or at room temperature. Covering the meat with cornstarch helps keep the juices in and makes a crispy coating.
SPARE RIBS WITH DARK SOY SAUCE, SESAME AND SPRING ONION
Place the ribs in a food storage bag; add rice wine, salt and pepper to taste. Seal bag; turn to coat the ribs. Marinate in the refrigerator 1 to 3 hours.
Combine the sugar, vinegar, 1 tablespoon of the cornstarch and soy sauce in a small bowl; set aside. Place 2 tablespoons of the cornstarch on a platter. Remove ribs from marinade; discard marinade. Roll the ribs in the cornstarch to coat; set aside.
Heat a few inches of oil in a wok or deep skillet to 375 degrees. Add the spare ribs, in batches if needed. Cook until golden on all sides, about 4 minutes. Remove to paper towel-lined platter. Let oil cool; carefully pour into another container or discard.
Stir the sugar and soy sauce mixture; add to the wok. Heat to a boil. Return the ribs to the wok; cook, tossing to coat with sauce, 1 minute. Transfer to a platter; garnish with toasted sesame seeds and green onions.
Makes 4 appetizer servings.
Frying fish, and then braising it in a sauce, is popular cooking method in Shanghai, said chef Miao. Almost any type of freshwater or saltwater fish can be used. Select whole small fishes that will fit in a wok or large fillets.
BRAISED RIVER FISH WITH SWEET GINGER-SOY SAUCE
Cut ginger in half; grate one of the halves into a medium bowl. Stir in water, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar and salt; set aside.
Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until just smoking; remove from the heat. Carefully rub the remaining piece of ginger over the interior of the wok; discard ginger. Return the wok to the heat. Add oil; heat over medium-high heat to 350 degrees.
Add fish; cook until golden on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn; cook 2 minutes.
Carefully discard all but 1 tablespoon of the oil in the wok. Add the soy sauce mixture to wok; heat to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium; cook until sauce is thickened and fish is cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer fish to a platter; pour sauce over. Garnish with green onions.
Makes 4 servings.
This vegetable side dish is adapted from another of Miao's recipes.
STIR-FRIED BEEF AND BROCCOLI WITH OYSTER SAUCE
Place beef slices in a large food storage bag. Whisk together the egg white, rice wine, 2 teaspoons of the soy sauce, 1 teaspoon of the cornstarch and baking soda in a small bowl; pour over beef. Seal; turn bag to coat beef with marinade. Refrigerate 1 to 3 hours.
Heat a large saucepan of water to a boil; add broccoli. Cook 30 seconds; drain. Set aside. Mix remaining teaspoon cornstarch, 1/2 cup water, oyster sauce, remaining 2 teaspoons of soy sauce, sugar and pepper to taste in a bowl; set aside.
Heat wok over high heat. Add oil; heat until very hot. Add beef in batches; stir-fry until meat is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon to bowl.
Discard all but 2 teaspoons of the oil; heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic. Cook, stirring, until garlic softens, about 30 seconds. Stir in the water-oyster sauce mixture. Add to wok, heat to a boil; cook 1 minute. Stir beef and broccoli back into wok. Cook to heat through, about 1 minute.
Makes 4 servings.
