Poached salmon has a wonderful air of elegance, and the presence of a poached whole fish on a buffet usually inspires oohs and aahs. It's every bit as elegant with smaller fillets for weeknight dinners, and makes an easy entertaining entree.

This method of poaching is almost effortless. Its very gentle heat keeps the fish moist and succulent. It's equally good hot or cold. Served with a simple dill-caper lemon mayonnaise sauce, it can anchor a simple supper that is pleasing and delicious.

If you're not planning to serve the poached salmon immediately, remove it to a plate, cover lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

STEEPED SALMON WITH DILL-CAPER SAUCE

1 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine such chardonnay

1 each: lemon, fresh dill branch

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

4 fillets salmon, about 6 ounces each

1 tablespoon each: minced fresh dill, capers

1/2 cup regular or low-fat mayonnaise

Heat 2 cups water and the 1 cup of wine in a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Cut lemon in half; squeeze 1 tablespoon juice from one half into a small bowl; set aside. Cut lemon into thin slices; reserve four for garnish. Add remaining slices to the skillet. Add the dill branch, salt and peppercorns to the skillet. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to simmer. Cook 10 minutes.

Add salmon fillets to skillet, skin side up; cover skillet with foil;simmer 4 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; remove foil. Turn fillets. Cover skillet; let stand, off heat, or until salmon is done, 5-8 minutes.

Meanwhile, stir the dill and capers into the mayonnaise in a small bowl; stir in reserved lemon juice. Makes 4 servings.