Here's a story to think about the next time you're stuck in traffic coming in from 'Ewa, getting hot under the collar. It's told by a little girl who traveled to 'Ewa in 1837, almost 170 years ago. She was the daughter of missionary doctor Gerrit Judd.

Her name was Kinau because a high chiefess of that name insisted on it. She married Samuel G. Wilder, a big noise during the time of King Kalakaua, and wrote about her journey in 1900 in The Advertiser.

Naturally, there were no such things as automobiles in 1837, or even roads. The easiest way to get to 'Ewa then was to go by canoe. But you didn't go by canoe unless you were a chief or a missionary. Commoners walked. Since Kinau's father was Dr. Gerrit Judd, an important missionary, the governor of O'ahu himself steered the canoe. He was M. Kekuanaoa, by that time a wise, old man.

A party of sturdy Hawaiians accompanied the Judds to carry children and clothing. The clothing went in calabashes suspended from shoulder poles. Kinau said calabashes were essential for a trip to 'Ewa. Kaka'ako in those days was muddy, so natives carried the kids around the puddles.

The child clung tight to her doll made from a stick of koa and scraps of silk, a gift of High Chiefess Kinau. At what is now the harbor, the double canoe was waiting in deeper water. Natives carried Mrs. Judd and the kids to the canoe, Kekuanaoa sitting in back with a steering paddle. The other Hawaiians paddled.

It was a great adventure for young Kinau. She wondered if her koa wood doll would float, so she put it in the water for just a second. A wave came along and carried the doll away. Tragedy! Gov. Kekuanaoa offered to go back for the doll, but Mrs. Judd wanted to get to 'Ewa before dark.

They made it. After a few days, the family decided to continue on to Waialua. This time, they went over land. The party consisted of the Judds, Hawaiians and three horses. The children rode one horse or were carried. Dr. and Mrs. Judd rode the other two horses. The Hawaiians walked.

Everything went splendidly until they got to Kaukonahua Gulch. It must have rained in the mountains because a torrent of muddy water filled the gulch. Nothing to do but wait for the water to go down because bridges hadn't even been heard of. This took several hours.

Finally, the water subsided enough for rocks to emerge above the surface. The Hawaiians stationed themselves on the rocks and, one by one, handed the children to the other side of the torrent. Mrs. Judd refused to be carried, so the patient Hawaiians led her through the swirling water.

At last, the party reached Waialua, where the children were put to bed early. They went right to sleep but soon awoke to a buzzing sound —mosquitoes, introduced in 1826 at Lahaina by a whaling ship. Hawaiian women spent the night waving ti leaves over the children.

Reach Bob Krauss at 525-8073.