Cape Town is a contradiction. It is arguably the most postcard-perfect city in South Africa, with elegant waterfront edifices and a frothy coastline set against the monumental backdrop of Table Mountain. World-class wineries, braais (barbecues) on the beach and frequent sunshine contribute to the relaxed ambience. English is widely spoken, and the modern infrastructure stands in stark contrast with much of the continent.

Yet the taint of apartheid lingers in Cape Town. Over the course of the last century, the rights of nonwhites were effectively abolished, leading to bloody clashes. In 1985, South Africa announced a state of emergency. After countless victims had been wrongly tortured, imprisoned and killed, free elections were finally held in 1994. Nelson Mandela was elected president, and he magnanimously worked to rebuild the country rather than vengefully repay his previous captors.

The dilapidated shantytowns, locally known as townships, are a reminder that change comes slowly. Economic inequality is a pressing problem, as are the high crime and AIDS rates. Progress is a tricky measure; life in South Africa has undoubtedly improved, but there is still much more to be accomplished.

METROPOLIS AND MOUNTAIN

It is with this mix of thoughts that my husband and I first visited Cape Town, 10 years after the 1994 elections. Although it was winter in the southern hemisphere, the warming sun tempers the brisk wind. Towering Table Mountain, playing hide-and-seek among the clouds, suddenly revealed itself, seeming more massive than heretofore imagined.

Our hotel was conveniently located near the Victoria and Alfred (V&A) Waterfront, a mecca of shops, eateries, performances and attractions such as the Two Oceans Aquarium. Taking advantage of Cape Town's location at the tip of Africa, the top-notch exhibits at the aquarium highlight sea creatures from both the Indian and Atlantic oceans.

Knowledgeable employees staff the V&A Waterfront Information Center. Asked whether we could independently tour downtown Cape Town, the staff worker frankly warned us against doing so, for safety reasons. "Even in the daytime?" I asked, but he shook his head no.

Cape Town is well worth a visit, and safety concerns should not keep tourists away, but common sense must be enforced: Stay in a group, stick to tourist areas, don't wander around at night, be alert to your surroundings, and as Mom would say, don't talk to strangers. Check with the U.S. State Department before traveling for the most up-to-date information on safety concerns.

Table Mountain seemed a promising alternative to Cape Town, although the wispy fog trailing across the summit indicated questionable visibility. On the way there, we passed by the Bo-Kaap district, a predominantly Muslim community characterized by its multihued building fronts.

The swinging Cableway takes less than five minutes to reach the breezy top of rectangular Table Mountain. Stretching more than 3,500 feet above Cape Town, Table Mountain is an unforgettable icon of South Africa. The monolith offers unforgettable views from walkways that meander between spiky rocks and low-lying fynbos. Known in the local language Afrikaans as "fine bush," fynbos are unique to this part of the world.

A nearby vantage point showcases the Twelve Apostles — huge granite crenulations overshadowing the beach at Camps Bay. An alternate lookout allows for a glimpse of Lion's Head, an aptly named rock formation. Cape Town lies in yet another direction, but a rolling cloud parks in front of us and blankets our view. As the fog leisurely curled away from the heights, it disclosed an otherworldly scene of squatting fynbos clinging to inky crags.

AFRICA'S MOST SOUTHWESTERN POINT

Our destination is the Cape of Good Hope, but the journey itself could not be more spectacular. Twisting south of the city along the coast, the route passed by charming seaside towns of Clifton, Sea Point and Kommetjie. Our Afrikaans- and English-speaking guide pointed out the lavish condominiums and opulent houses with waterfront views.

In a statement strangely reminiscent of Hawai'i real estate, she said, "These properties are primarily purchased by overseas investors. We local South African residents can't begin to afford them."

With their classic beaches and surrounding peaks, Hout and Camps bays are two of the most picturesque spots near Cape Town. As we entered Cape Peninsula National Park, a mother baboon loped along, an agile baby grasping her back. Stately spiral-horned eland, a species of antelope, stood alert amongst the fynbos. Jostling cormorants crowded together on the offshore rocks. The fauna seemed benign, but coexisting with African wildlife can present unusual problems.

"The baboons and porcupines wreak havoc on our gardens," said our guide. "As a consequence, we have set up neighborhood watches to alert people when the animals are on the prowl."

Taking in what it feels like to stand on the edge of a continent, we paused at the most southwestern point in Africa, the famous Cape of Good Hope. (The southernmost point in Africa is Cape Agulhas, eastward along the Western Cape.) Nearby Cape Point yields dramatic views from its rocky promontory leaning precipitously over the whitecaps. A rainbow formed over the cerulean ocean, bringing Hawai'i to mind.

Heading north to the town of Simonstad, we stopped to watch the waddling penguin colony on Boulders Beach. Awkward on land, the penguins excel at swimming. Fluffy chicks in various stages of molting sat upright, waiting to be fed by attentive parents. Formerly known as the jackass species of penguin, the birds, probably to their relief, have been renamed African penguins. It was with reluctance that we pulled ourselves away from watching their whimsical antics and headed back to Cape Town.

ISLAND LESSONS

Returning to the V&A Waterfront, we signed up the next day for an official Robben Island tour, the only way to see the former prison where Nelson Mandela was held for 27 years. The informative waiting area contains compelling photos and intriguing paraphernalia from the apartheid era. Rapid conversation punctuated by popping sounds emanated from nearby, and I spot a pair of young ladies.

"Which language are you speaking?" I asked curiously.

Giggling shyly, they reply, "San."

"Can you teach me how to say thank you in San?" I inquired. San, a clicking language, is actually spoken more frequently in neighboring Botswana and Namibia, but South Africa attracts its fair share of immigrants.

"?in ?a," they answer, the "?" here representing a clicking sound. It was more challenging than a tongue twister. We left to board the ferry, clicking as we went.

A far cry from the archipelagos of the South Pacific, Robben Island is one island that does not evoke images of sandy stretches and palm trees. As we embarked upon the 30-minute boat ride, the guide requested that we quietly reflect upon the area's sobering history. The dark clouds pressing low and the piercing smell of guano as we approach the harbor contribute to the somber mood.

Once housing a Hansen's disease colony and a mental institution, Robben Island is most infamous for serving as a prison during South Africa's apartheid era. Besides Mandela, famous prisoners included black activists Walter Sisulu and Robert Sobukwe.

Our articulate guide, Eugene, was himself once a political prisoner on Robben Island. The tour began with a solemn walk through the stark prison buildings, passing by the spartan cell where Mandela lived. Later, a bus shuttled us to view churches, former military areas and a quarry where prisoners were kept busy with mindless activities. Across Table Bay, Table Mountain looms in the distance, Cape Town a small afterthought lingering below.

Eugene emphasized that the purpose of the Robben Island tours is not to instill bitterness or incite revenge, but rather to encourage reconciliation and bestow hope for South Africa's future. To be able to exhibit such mercy and grace to former enemies is impressive, putting to shame our petty quotidian grudges.

Like other faraway destinations, Cape Town offers stunning scenery, delectable food and a plethora of activities. But you will leave Cape Town with more than just impressive snapshots, a full stomach and glossy brochures. You will be sobered by the history of apartheid, you will be inspired by the display of forgiveness, and you too will begin to dream of a South Africa — yes, even a world — where the color of your skin truly does not matter.

Monica Quock Chan is a Honolulu freelance writer. She has lived in Europe and Asia, and has traveled to nearly 50 countries.