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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Holiday beautiful

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Holiday makeup for 2005 is sheer and shimmery, soft and sensuous. It's about warm washes rather than harsh lines and tones. The approach is that of a watercolorist, subtly layering diaphanous color until just the right intensity is achieved.

Cosmetics available everywhere, from Neiman Marcus to Longs Drugs, are making it easier to create this look. They are sheer, subtle and made to be blended easily.

We asked four talented Honolulu makeup artists what they would choose if they could only add one item to their holiday cosmetics kit this year. Here's what they said.

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GERRY BROWN

Job title: Director of makeup, Paul Brown Salon

Credentials: "Baywatch," local TV anchors and personalities

Partial client list: Dolly Parton, Courtney Thorne-Smith, Brooke Lee, Angela Baraquio, Timothy Busfield, Jordan Segundo, Frank DeLima

Holiday pick: Paul Brown crème eyeliner in "Evergreen," a beautiful smoky green

Why? This formula is easier to work with than liquid liners and not as hard looking. They're longer lasting than pencils and more smudge-proof.

How to wear it: Pair it with gold shimmery shadow, using a strong line and slight extension at the ends. Or try with a dark olive shimmer shadow, and smudge the liner for a smoky effect.

Other brands? Bobbi Brown gel liner; $18 at Neiman Marcus

What is THE look for holiday? Washes of shimmery colors for the eyes such as gold, greens, metallics. Lip gloss is still a strong look in softer tones for the holidays.

General tips: Balance your makeup by emphasizing either your eyes or your lips, but not both. Also, don't go overboard with shimmer. A little dusted on the cheekbones or shoulders is enough.

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LIZ DAHL

Business: Tint, in the CHOP Salon, Restaurant Row

Credentials: "Pearl Harbor," "Baywatch," "North Shore," Travel & Leisure magazine

Partial client list: Rita Wilson, Tia Carrere, Isabella Rossellini, Dennis Rodman

Holiday pick: "Clarity" shimmer dust by FACE Stockholm; $20, available exclusively at Tint

Why? It's the holidays! Add a little glam with a shimmer.

How to wear it: To brighten eyes and make them look larger, use a tiny defining brush and dot it on the inner corners of the eyes. Also beautiful on cheekbones, clavicles and shoulders, and a few little dots can make lips look fuller.

Other brands? "Nymph" by Becca; $18 at Sephora

What is THE look for holiday? Shimmer dust can go over any makeup, from subtle to va-va-voom.

General tips: To take a daytime look into evening in seconds, intensify eyes with a darker shadow placed in the crease and on the upper and lower lash lines; add a little Shimmer on the brow bone, lid and inner corner of the eyes.

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E'JAY MALDONADO

Job title: Director of beauty/international trainer, Body & Soul

Credentials: Atelier d'Maquillage/Paris, Ultissiam Beauty Institute/New York City, Pivot Point Academy/Puerto Rico

Partial client list: The casts of "Desperate Housewives," "Still Standing," and "How I Met Your Mother"; Buffalo Jeans, for its show during LA Fashion Week

Holiday pick: A lustrous lip gloss. My favorite is Body & Soul's Lip Jewel, a favorite on the set of "Desperate Housewives"; $25 at Sephora and www.bodyandsoul.com.

Why? Lipsticks tend to fade and dehydrate the lips, so a moisturizing lip gloss is a must-have.

How to wear it: Over a clean lip. Line softly with a nude lip liner. Start application from the inner part of your pout, running the brush to the outside for a lighter application to the lip line. This will help prevent feathering.

Other brands? Kevin Aucoin, Kanebo and Alcone lip glosses

What is THE look for holiday? Soft, radiant skin, bright, jewel-tone eyes, lots of mascara. Flirt with the idea of false eyelashes, warm cheeks and rich glosses.

General tips: Avoid harsh lip liners! Also, stay away from tacky, runny, waxy textured glosses.

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JAMES SARTAIN

Business name: James Sartain Makeup/Hair Stylist

Credentials: "Lost," "50 First Dates," "Blue Crush," "Pearl Harbor;" ads for Coca Cola, Shiseido, Tiffany, Vanity Fair, Esquire and Entertainment Weekly

Partial client list: Kate Bosworth, Tia Carrere, Snoop Dogg, Rachel Hunter, Malia Jones, The Rock, Ben Stiller

Holiday pick: Nars "The Multiple" in South Beach — but choose your best shade, $36 at Sephora, DFS and Neiman Marcus.

Why? It's dual purpose: a cream eye shadow and cheek color. South Beach is warm and shimmery.

How to wear it: Use your fingertip and/or stipple with a sponge on cheeks and eyelids. A little goes a long way. Always remember to blend.

Other brands? If you're on a strict budget, look in your local drug store for ZA, Revlon or Maybelline.

What is THE look for holiday? It's 2005. There are no rules. Makeup should be fun and a form of self-expression. Hey, at the end of the day, you wash it off.

General tips: Visit makeup counters. Talk to the artists and have them work with you on product knowledge and application. You'll walk away with more confidence, and if you're lucky, you'll get some great testers to go home and try.

Reach Paula Rath at prath@honoluluadvertiser.com.