We hear the name Lolita and we are instantly reminded of the young girl in Nabakov's story. And we don't even need the word vodka when we hear Grey Goose. This phenomenon has firmly entered the world of wines as well, but it seems in this ancient arena, the more irreverent and contemporary names hold the torch. We can credit the Aussies for introducing us to things like d'Arenberg's Dead Arm Shiraz, named after a vine that looked like it had one dead arm, or Grant Burge's The Holy Trinity, which was a collaboration between the family, the church and the vines they planted.

Two Hands' Gnarly Dude and Innocent Bystander's Pinot Noir Rose are two new labels from Down Under making waves inside and out. Not only are the names fun, but the wine inside is fresh and exciting.

Of course, the most irreverent ones get our attention and our tongues. And today, even California, finally brave enough to leap from behind France and Italy, is venturing into this name game. Michael David Vineyards' 7 Deadly Zins, a zinfandel from Lodi Valley, gives an ode to the sins — and to the seven growers who contribute to the blend. Folie à Deux winery in Napa offers Ménage à Trois, a blend of three different grapes in one wine. Or how about Screw Kappa Napa and its sister winery Smoking Loon. Perhaps you've seen Three Thieves Bianco Bandit jug wine on shelves or the latest Wine Block — premium wine from a box. There's even a winery called Le Snoot, with an animated pig on the label.

But the Aussies definitely have the upper hand on brazen and unabashed names. D'Arenberg alone has its Dead Arm, Stump Jump, Laughing Magpie and Hermit Crab. And there's Taltarni 3 Monks, which is based on a nickname for the three winemakers, who call themselves "the three cellar monkeys." And you've probably seen Little Penguin and Little Boomey in your neighborhood grocery store.

It's not surprising that in an age of increasing informality and fewer suits and ties, even in Mainland metropolitan areas, the wine industry is trying to capitalize on this growing ease of life. Not long ago, even Hawai'i was a bit more formal. Today, slippers and aloha shirts are worn by working men from Maui to Manhattan. And this relaxed feeling seems to be working. Thanks in part to the "fun" that wineries worldwide are bottling, wine sales have reached an all-time high.

Even more surprising is a recent Gallup poll that discovered wine is actually in a tie with beer as the alcoholic beverage of choice for Americans. And it's not white zinfandel leading the pack. Much of the increase has been in the premium wine category.

Of course sometimes, it's not just the wine name, but the story behind the name that sells a vintage. One of my favorite stories behind a wine is that of Avignonesi Desiderio, named for Desiderio, a stud bull employed in the late 1800s to re-populate the breed, used for Bistecca Fiorentina, Italy's infamous steak. Inside the bottle of Avignonesi Desiderio is a Wine Spectator Top 100 Wine of the Year, a gorgeous and huge merlot with a touch of cabernet sauvignon. A sketch of Desiderio is on the label with the dates of his reign. Next time you're at Tamura's or HASR Wine Company, check out the Avignonesi Desiderio, which retails for about $40 and a few of these: