The leaves may not be turning red in Hawai'i, and there may not be a clean, crisp edge to the air, but football season is upon us, and it is time to negotiate the art of football and wine. A New England Patriots fan since birth (I was born in Providence, R.I., less than 30 minutes from Foxboro), I have stood by "my" team through thick, thin and thinner.

Dare I forget my first Super Bowl party, when the Patriots took on the Chicago Bears? We ran to the video store at halftime but stuck out the carnage until the end, thanks in part to a hefty supply of spirits, beer and wine. That was 20 years ago, and everything has changed. The Patriots have triumphed at the Super Bowl three times in the past four years, and my knowledge of wine scored me a passing grade in the Society of Wine Educators' Certified Specialist of Wine exam.

Safetys and shiraz, pinots and passes, blitzes and bordeaux.

Of course, wine and football can be a little more challenging here in Hawai'i with games starting at 7 a.m. through October. The 1 p.m. kickoffs are a bit more conducive to wine-drinking, and the Monday and Thursday night games offer an even better arena. But what wines do you pair with food traditionally served and eaten during games?

Well, for those early-morning games where bacon, sausage and eggs are frying, try a mimosa — a blend of orange or other juices and sparkling wine. In fact, sparkling wine and champagne (the true stuff made by traditional means in the Champagne region of France) are naturals with most foods, from eggs and Spam to chips and clam dip. And the orange juice is helpful in camouflaging the fact you're drinking at 7 a.m.

Of course, if you skip over the breakfast foods and move right into football food, the choices are numerous. That sparkling wine or champagne is a natural with snacks — everything from sushi and salmon to salted nuts. The acidity and bubbles of champagne are brilliant with salty, crispy and fried foods.

But say you're not a fan of bubbly, and you've amassed a bachelor-style food spread of Cheetos, Pringles and Lay's. Think no further than a peachy chilled glass of albarino from the Rias Baixas region of Spain or a mineral-laden and crisp pinot grigio from Italy. The acidity in both wines helps balance out the saltiness of the food with a clean, refreshing taste. The aura of sweetness (a bouquet of lychee, peaches and papaya is prevalent in many dry, crisp wines) is the perfect answer to the salt. A Riesling from Germany works well, too. If your tastes fall closer to the sea, and the poke spread at Tamashiro's or Tamura's got the best of you, no problem. Any of the wines mentioned so far will work beautifully.

As the game progresses, and Tom Brady passes for his third touchdown before the half, it may be time to bring out the big boys. A great wine for the sausages and ribs grilling on the barbie is a zinfandel from Amador County, Calif. The heavy body and high alcohol of the zinfandel grape balances beautifully with the heavy, smoky flavors in the grilled meats. For something a little more novel, and as creative as a Bill Belichick play, try a South African pinotage. A grape unique to South Africa, pinotage is a crossing of pinot noir and cinsault created in 1925. The wood and spicy ripe fruit of this grape score points with everything from hamburgers to baby back ribs. Remember, the key to tackling a successful wine pairing is matching the weight and intensity of the wine with a similar weight and flavor of food.

Here are a few of my recommendations so that the next time your favorite team is ready to kick off, you'll be covered.