Sam Choy didn't invent poke � the raw fish salad that is the much-favored fare for pau hana gatherings, carport parties and other occasions. But he might as well have. He invented, or at least popularized, a technique that made poke palatable to those who weren't quite ready to put a piece of raw fish into their mouths. By searing the fish, and making sure it was swimming in flavorful ingredients, he taught thousands of people � Islanders and visitors � to reconsider and relish the concept.

Choy, the genial Paul Prudhomme of the Islands, with his trademark "OK" hand sign and his broad smile, now has released "Poke" (Mutual, spiral-bound closed cover, $32.95), which explores the wide range of this dish (peanut butter poke, anyone?), with not only Choy's recipes but those of a who's who of Island chefs. He's signing books Nov. 7 at 10 a.m. at Borders, Waikele, and 2 p.m. at Barnes and Noble, Ala Moana, and also Nov. 22 at 1 p.m. at Barnes and Noble, Kahala. On Nov. 7, he'll also do a cooking demonstration at Ala Moana Center Stage at 12:30 p.m.

� Wanda A. Adams