For the tulip shells:

For the sauce:

To make the mousse, in a food processor combine the scallions, garlic and ginger and pulse until minced.

Add the shrimp, egg white, soy sauce, sesame oil, cornstarch, salt and white pepper. Pulse 5 times to finely chop all the ingredients, then pulse in 5-second intervals until they form a smooth paste.

Transfer the mousse to a bowl, cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. The mousse can be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

While the mousse chills, prepare the "tulip" shells.

Remove the first outer layer of leaves from each head of bok choy. To create the tulip, trim each head, 1 1/2 inches from the root end, cutting straight across the root end to create a flat base on which it can stand.

Each tulip should have about 3 petals. To shape the petals, use a pairing knife to cut a "V" into each one, then use a small melon baller to scoop out the core of each tulip. Refrigerate until the mousse has chilled.

When ready to assemble, fill a large skillet or wok with about 2 inches of water and set over medium-high heat. Place a bamboo or other steamer basket over the skillet or wok.

While the water warms, lightly dust each "tulip" with cornstarch, shaking off any excess. Fill each with a rounded tablespoon of the shrimp mousse, using a wet finger to smooth the top of the mousse.

Stand the filled bok choy in the steamer. Cover and steam until the shrimp mousse is just cooked through, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the clam juice, oyster sauce and white pepper. Bring to a boil, then stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring constantly, unti it returns to a boil and thickens.

Transfer the "tulips" to a serving plate. Garnish each with fish roe. Spoon the sauce around the plate and serve.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

This simple stir-fry of bok choy is light, but full of flavor.

GINGER GARLIC BABY BOK CHOY

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with cold water.

Trim the ends of the bok choy, separating and rinsing the leaves.

Add 1 teaspoon of salt and the bok choy to the water in the saucepan. Blanch the bok choy for 1 minute, or until bright green. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bok choy to the cold water. Let them cool briefly, then drain and set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the rice wine, oyster sauce, soy sauce and remaining salt. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over high, swirling the pan to coat the sides. Add the garlic, ginger and chilies and saute until fragrant, about 10 seconds.

Add the bok choy and sauce and saute until the liquid has reduced by half, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Makes 4 servings.

Yan uses dried tangerine peel to give this chicken dish added flavor. If you can't find any, the recipe still tastes great without it.

TANGERINE PEEL CHICKEN

For the sauce:

For the stir-fry:

In a small bowl, soak the dried tangerine peel in warm water until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain, cut into narrow strips and set aside.

Slice off the ends of the tangerines. Hold the fruit with one cut side on the cutting board and use a paring knife to remove the peel in strips, working your way around the fruit. Cut deeply enough to remove the white pith.

Slice fruit into segments, cutting the flesh away from the membranes. Place the flesh in a small bowl.

Discard half of the tangerine peels. Cut away and discard the white pith from the remaining half, then cut the peels into long narrow strips. Place peel in a small bowl and set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the cornstarch, soy sauce and wine. Add the chicken and stir to coat evenly. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a small bowl, combine all ingredients, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside.

Heat a large skillet or wok over high. Add the oil and swirl to coat the sides of the pan.

Add the onion, chilies and ginger, then stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until no longer pink at the center.

Add the scallions and the dried and fresh tangerine peels; stir-fry until the green onions soften, about 1 minute. Add the sauce and bring to a boil.

Add the tangerine segments and stir to coat with the sauce. Add the cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring, until the sauce boils and thickens, about 30 seconds.

Makes 4 servings.