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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, December 21, 2008

Christmas markets a draw in Germany

By Alexis Kunsak
Associated Press

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Hundreds of people gather around a carousel at the Christmas market festival in Frankfurt am Main, one of the biggest in Germany.

MICHAEL PROBST | Associated Press

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NUREMBERG, Germany — This time of year, the Christmas spirit descends on Germany's cities and towns in the form of wooden stalls laden with pretzels, toys and baked goods of all shapes and sizes.

More than 130 places in Germany host Christmas markets, each one emphasizing regional specialties and flair. The celebrations have developed into an art form, with handcrafted wooden ornaments, elaborate nativity displays and delectable treats that would leave Santa and his reindeer turning up their noses at mere cookies and milk.

The markets are a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world. But the markets also draw on centuries of Christmas traditions in this country where the Protestant Reformation took root and where the present pope was born, with some customs dating back to the Middle Ages.

Dresden and Nuremberg compete for the oldest and most famous Christmas markets.

Dresden, in Germany's east, boasts the Striezelmarkt, the oldest documented Christmas market in the country, dating to 1434. It is home to the largest "Christmas pyramid" — a 45-foot-high wood structure lit with candles that spin the the decorated pyramid's tiers.

The tradition for Christmas wood carving comes from the Erzgebirge, or "Ore Mountains," an old mining region south of the city that borders the Czech Republic. Nutcrackers and "smoking men" incense holders were originally created here.

The Stollen Festival is another highlight of the market, with the largest loaf of Christstollen — a buttery, spiced loaf weighing between 3 and 4 tons — cut here and served to visitors on Dec. 8.

In Nuremberg in Bavaria, the city's Christkindlmarkt is perhaps the most famous of all the markets, counting some 2 million visitors from Japan, the U.S., China and elsewhere around the world every year. They come for the Lebkuchen, a spicy gingerbread baked here since 1395.

In Frankfurt am Main's historical center, the Dom Roemer transforms from its post-World War II reconstruction of history into a wonderland of carousel music, bundled groups of people laughing around cauldrons of hot spiced wine called Gluehwein.