MILAN, Italy — Be it fettuccine, linguine or spaghetti, Italians will soon be paying up to 20 percent more for their pasta.

Consumer groups are calling for a one-day pasta strike today — not against eating it, but against buying it — to protest the increase. But producers say the strike targeting Italy's national dish is wrongheaded because the price is linked to a global rise in the cost of grain.

Pasta is an Italian staple, entwined with the national identity. It's not uncommon for families to discuss which pasta best fits that day's sauce — tubular penne, twisty rigatoni or flat linguine. The average Italian eats about 62 pounds of pasta a year, on a peninsula so far untouched by low-carb diet crazes.

"There is no dish that costs less," said Furio Bragagnolo, the vice president of the Italian pasta manufacturers association. "Whoever decides to strike against pasta will spend more on whatever they buy instead. A plate of pasta probably costs less than an apple."

The increase in the price of pasta is being driven by rising wheat prices worldwide, economists and producers say.

The demand for wheat is the result of several trends, chiefly an increasing demand for biofuels, which can be made from wheat, and improved diets in emerging countries where putting more meat on the table is raising the demand for feed for livestock, said Francesco Bertolini, an economist at Milan's Bocconi University.

As a result, wheat stocks worldwide are being depleted and grain prices are soaring. The U.S. Department of Agriculture said yesterday that U.S. stockpiles are at their lowest level in 33 years.

Italy produces only about half of the high-protein durum wheat used to make high-quality pasta and bread; the rest is imported from overseas markets, including the United States, Canada and Ukraine.

While consumer groups raised the alarm about the price increase, few shoppers in supermarkets were taking notice.

"I'm not so bothered because it's not such a drastic increase, and anyway it involves a type of food that continues to have a low price," said Gabriele D'Angelo, a police officer shopping in Rome on yesterday.

Such worldwide producers as De Cecco — which sells pasta in more than 80 countries — expect little fluctuation in their market overall as a result of the price increases and even less impact from the strike — noting that consumers tend to buy pasta four to five pounds at a time.

"It's a symbolic strike, which will have no impact," said De Cecco's commercial director, Luciano Berardi. "To say not to eat pasta would be a call to arms. It's the least expensive dish there is."