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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, September 20, 2006

TASTE
Grilling brings out flavors of vegetables

 •  Quantity control

By The Culinary Institute of America
Associated Press

HYDE PARK, N.Y. — The grill isn't just for meat. Vegetables are also right at home cooked above a hot layer of coals. The smoke lends a unique flavor to vegetables, and the high heat of the grill draws out their natural sugars, caramelizing their surface for an irresistible bite.

Add a punch of flavor with a marinade, serve with an array of sauces, and grilled vegetables are vibrant and aromatic enough to stand on their own as an appetizer or main course.

From greens to dense roots, it is possible to grill almost any vegetable. The key is to take special care in grilling and to use the freshest produce available.

As vegetables travel from the field to the market, they can lose moisture, changing them from crisp and firm to shriveled and soft. Farmers' markets and farm stands, grocery stores that feature local produce, and homegrown gardens are often the best sources for fresh vegetables. Ideally, vegetables should be firm and unblemished with bright colors. Attached leaves should be full, and root ends, if any, should be dry.

Dan Turgeon, professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America, offers these tips when preparing vegetables for the grill:

"Give them a good rinse and allow them to dry well. It is especially important for vegetables to be dry if they are going to be marinated before grilling. Parboil denser vegetables to help speed their cooking time. Place them in boiling salted water, or steam them, until they are slightly tender.

"Shortening a vegetable's time on the grill also improves its texture and flavor, keeping it from scorching and drying out on the outside before fully cooking on the inside," he adds.

To make smaller items such as cherry tomatoes ready for the grill, thread them on skewers to keep them from falling through the cooking grate. This also works well for quartered onions. Use toothpicks or skewers to pin the layers together so they won't fall apart while cooking and turning.

Skewers may be bamboo, wood or metal. Soak bamboo or wooden skewers in cool water for at least 30 minutes so they won't ignite on the grill. Metal skewers do not require any special treatment, but be careful not to touch them while they are still hot.

Most marinades contain oils, and if too much drips onto the burner or coals, it could cause a flare-up. To prevent this, shake excess marinade from the vegetables before placing on the grill. If you are not using a marinade, brush a light coating of oil on the vegetables or directly on the cooking grate to keep the food from sticking.

These recipes for a colorful vegetable platter and three tasty sauces inspired by Mediterranean traditions are from The Culinary Institute of America's "Grilling" cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman, 2006, $35).

Together they provide a feast that the editors of the book call "a vegetarian's dream."

MIXED GRILL OF GARDEN VEGETABLES

  • 3 artichokes

  • 1/2 lemon

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 4 teaspoons salt

  • 3 fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered

  • 18 baby carrots, peeled

  • 18 asparagus stalks, trimmed and peeled

  • 3 zucchini, trimmed and halved lengthwise

  • 1/2 cup olive oil

  • 3 tablespoons minced garlic

  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • 12 new potatoes, parboiled and halved

  • 2 red onions, quartered

  • 18 mushrooms, trimmed

  • 2 red peppers, cored and quartered

  • 2 yellow peppers, cored and quartered

  • 1 cup Italian-style sauce (recipe follows)

  • 1 cup Greek-style sauce (recipe follows)

  • 1 cup North African-style sauce (recipe follows)

    Remove the tough outer leaves from the artichokes. Cut the stem away from the artichoke, leaving about 1 inch of the stem still attached. Cut the artichokes in half and remove the choke. Rub the cut side of the artichoke with the lemon half.

    Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Add the artichokes and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the artichokes and let cool to room temperature.

    Bring a second large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 teaspoons of salt and then, working in batches, add the fennel and carrots, cooking until partially tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain all the cooked vegetables well and let cool slightly. Score the flesh of the zucchini with the tines of a fork.

    Combine olive oil, garlic, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper in a large bowl. Add all the par-cooked vegetables, the asparagus, the zucchini, the potatoes and the onions, and toss to coat. Marinate the vegetables in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

    Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

    Grill all the vegetables on both sides until tender but not mushy. Place the vegetables on the grill in the following order: red peppers, yellow peppers, zucchini, carrots, fennel, onions, mushrooms, potatoes, asparagus and artichokes. Grill the vegetables, turning as necessary, until they begin to take on color and are cooked through, about 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the vegetable.

    Arrange the grilled vegetables on a platter and drizzle with the remaining lemon juice. Serve with the 3 sauces at room temperature.

    Makes 8 servings.

  • Per serving for vegetables only per 29-ounce serving: 430 calories, 13 g protein, 77 g carbohydrate, 11 g fat, 1,360 mg sodium, no cholesterol, 16 g fiber

    ITALIAN-STYLE SAUCE

  • 2 cups roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

  • 1/4 cup olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon grated parmesan cheese

  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice

  • 3/4 teaspoon minced garlic

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

    Combine all the ingredients. The sauce is ready to serve now or it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

    Makes 1 cup.

  • Per 1-ounce serving: 80 calories, 1 g protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 8 g fat, 260 mg sodium, no cholesterol, less than 1 g fiber

    GREEK-STYLE SAUCE

  • 1 cup feta cheese

  • 1/4 cup minced dill

  • 1/4 cup lemon juice

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

    Combine all the ingredients. The sauce is ready to serve now or it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

    Makes 1 cup.

  • Per 1-ounce serving: 45 calories, 3 g protein, 2 g carbohydrate, 3 g fat, 530 mg sodium, 10 mg cholesterol, less than 1 g fiber

    NORTH AFRICAN-STYLE SAUCE

  • 1/2-half cup olive oil

  • 1/4 cup lemon juice

  • 3 tablespoons chopped parsley

  • 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

  • 3/4 teaspoon paprika

  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • Pinch of ground cayenne pepper

    Combine all the ingredients. The sauce is ready to serve now or it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

    Makes 1 cup.

  • Per 1-ounce serving: 140 calories, no protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 16 g fat, 250 mg sodium, no cholesterol, no fiber