Office attire for the upwardly mobile employee has become a conundrum for many in the Hawai'i business world. We all recognize that the workplace has become more casual, but exactly what does that mean?

Fifty years ago, the Bishop Street "uniform" was clear. Businessmen wore suits, white shirts and ties. Women wore tailored dresses or suits with skirts, pumps and stockings. Hats were common. But anyone dressed that way today would look like they were going to a vintage costume party. So what is appropriate workplace attire in 2006?

A little too much cleavage, a too-short skirt or peek at the midriff may take Maile down a notch in the eye of a discerning boss. Wearing sexy clothes in the workplace signals a lack of professionalism and sophistication.

Scuffed shoes, a crinkled collar or shoes and belt that don't match may keep Keoki from being a serious contender for that department promotion. Dressing well is a sign of attention to detail, after all.

In this time of casual dressing, it's still possible to be too casual. These tips will help you avoid fashion faux pas in the office.

A SIGN OF RESPECT

Dressing well demonstrates respect for your workplace and supervisors. One way to craft a wardrobe is to check out people you admire in your office, especially those who are in a job to which you aspire. Approach them at the water cooler and ask them where they shop.

Unfortunately, employee manuals are seldom helpful. In a few terse paragraphs they usually refer to the state of the clothes — recommending you be neat and clean — rather than their style.

That leaves the employee with more questions than answers: Can I wear jeans to work? Does my shirt have to be tucked in? Is a sleeveless blouse OK? What about sandals?

Peter Ho, a well-dressed man about town, recently was promoted to vice chairman and chief banking officer at the Bank of Hawaii. While he does not subscribe to the shallow belief that "clothes make the man," the successful executive advises the upwardly mobile employee to pay attention to details.

Clothes, Ho said, "convey what sort of person you are.

"To me it's important that I signal that I pay attention to detail and take pride in what I do," the bank officer said. So he watches out for the little things: a well-pressed shirt, polished shoes and coordinated belt, watch, shoes and socks. "No one cares if you're wearing a Ralph Lauren shirt or something much less expensive — that's not as meaningful as how you're wearing them."

While the Hawai'i banker's "uniform" was for many years the reverse-print aloha shirt, pleated pants and loafers, Ho said that is loosening up now: "I think lifestyle-related shirts (shirts that reflect your hobbies and enthusiasms, such as shirts with motorcycle, car or cocktail images — are fine. I wear them myself. In my mind there's nothing wrong with expressing yourself and having fun with what you wear as long as there's nothing inappropriate about it."

Claudette Miller, executive recruiter and placement manager for Altres Inc., agrees that appropriate attire and impeccable grooming are especially important for the upwardly mobile. She warns those seeking a promotion against being "cocky and overconfident and taking it for granted that they'll be accepted for what they've done rather than how they look."

Of course dedication, trustworthiness and ambition are key, but how you present yourself cannot help but make an impression, positive or negative, on an employer.

Dana Gusman is in government affairs with the law firm Watanabe, Ing and Komeiji. She works daily with attorneys and legislators. This means she has to walk a sartorial tightrope between being overdressed at the state Capitol (a political no-no) and underdressed when meeting with attorneys.

Her solution is to wear classic separates, usually a pair of tailored pants and a sweater. She expresses her individuality with accessories.

Skirts and tailored shirts are also a staple for her. She adores heels. "But now that I'm in my 30s, I need to be more kind to my feet," she says, so she chooses fashionable flats on days when she does a lot of walking.

Suits, for Gusman, are out. A few years ago, she went to a meeting wearing one, and it provoked comments. "It made me feel so overdressed I never wore a suit again," she said.

As for pantyhose, they seem to be optional in nearly every workplace in the Islands. Just be sure to select the appropriate hosiery for a polished, pulled-together look. Opaque hose seldom look right in our climate. The sheerest nude hose work well with nearly everything as long as the hose have sandal toes.

Shaun Carey, assistant comptroller and human resources manager for Laird Christianson Advertising and McNeil Wilson Communications, has many days when he interacts with bankers, potential employees, techies and creative people. He tries to dress in a way that's appropriate for these varied groups.

When he worked in New York, he wore suits every day. Now they hang in his closet. He prefers dress shirts with the sleeves rolled up, paired with summer-weight wool slacks or one of the new blends such as cotton/rayon or microfiber, and leather lace-up or slip-on shoes.

"A dress shirt with a tie just doesn't look right in Hawai'i," he said, adding: "I never wear a white dress shirt because it doesn't look right without a tie."

Carey said the biggest challenge in Honolulu is maintaining his clothes and shoes. "I look for fabrics that will stand up to the climate, as well as to dry cleaning, and keep looking good."

He prefers pure cotton shirts. On Fridays, he wears a fashion-forward pair of jeans with a collared shirt.

Jeans can also be OK for women in some work environments, but not the "Saturday night jeans" that are low-rise and sexy. A darker wash is more appropriate for both men and women.

While magazines tend to tout over-the-top fashions and flaunt increasing amounts of skin, these styles are not meant for the workplace. The employee who wants to be taken seriously, and to be seriously considered for a promotion, will forego the trends and find a look that is polished and professional.

Reach Paula Rath at prath@honoluluadvertiser.com.