A few weeks ago, a reader who is a fan of Korean soap operas, said she would like a lighter version for ja jang myun. She said every time she watches a scene showing this dish, she wishes she were one of the actors in the show. My editor Wanda Adams helped me track down a conventional recipe. Then two girlfriends, both of Korean ethnicity, Anna and Cecelia, helped me with the shopping and the preparation of this popular dish.

Ja jang myun is actually of Chinese origin but popular all over South Korea. It is said to have originated in the port city of Incheon. Restaurants served it to the Chinese community, but the taste soon caught on and spread to the rest of the country. Every year, Incheon celebrates a ja jang myun-eating festival.

Today, in urban areas of South Korea, you can make a phone order and your ja jang will be delivered on the back of a scooter, like pizza in the U.S. This thick noodle dish served with a special, glistening black bean sauce is a favorite of Korean children. The best noodles are handmade, resembling udon, and served right after they're boiled.

The Chinese name for this dish is zha jiang mian and it is a Northern Chinese specialty. Korean consider the dish Chinese, but have added their own flavors, so the version they make is unique to Korea.

The difference is in "the paste" — the rich, black soybean paste that coats the noodles. You can get imported versions at Korean grocery stores (Daiei, Palama, and Queen's markets). I bought Wang brand in a jar. Korean cooks differentiate between pastes that are made with boiled or steamed beans, pastes that are made with fermented beans, and even pastes from beans that are fermented at different times of the year (when the weather is hot as opposed to mild). A recipe called Chunjang is a favorite because of the flavor of fermented beans that is bitter with a touch of sweetness.

A feature on jajangmyun at www.asiafood.org quotes a story in the Korea Times that makes clear how popular ja jang myun is: Prices for the dish have risen faster than inflation and the prices of all other dishes tracked, but demand has remained steady despite this. (To see the full report, go to www.asiafood.org/restaurants/feature_jajangmyun.cfm)

Here's a version of the dish that made healthier by using brown rice pasta and greatly reducing the oil (in its original form, ja jang myun is simply swimming in oil, but we were able to get the desired glistening surface and silky texture with 2 tablespoons of peanut oil.

We also reduced fat by using Boca Burger (a soy-based ground-meat substitute) for part of the pork. You can make the dish vegetarian by using 4 Boca Burgers and eliminating the pork.

ENLIGHTENED JA JANG MYUN

4 quarts water

1 tablespoon sea salt

18 ounces of fettuccini-style brown rice pasta

1/4 pound very lean ground pork plus 2 chopped Boca Burgers

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons garlic, minced

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons ginger, minced

4 tablespoons roasted ja jang (black bean paste)

2 tablespoon peanut oil

2 teaspoons brown sugar or Splenda

2 onions, diced

1/4 of a small cabbage, finely chopped

For starch water:

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

3/4 cup water or organic chicken or vegetable broth

1/4 of cucumber, sliced or chopped

In a large saucepan, bring 4 quarts of water and 1 tablespoon sea salt to a rapid boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, stir-fry the ground pork in a nonstick skillet. Towel off excess oil and add the Boca Burgers. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes. Mix the ja jang sauce with 2 tablespoons of oil to form a glossy, smooth paste. Push the pork mixture to one side in the pan and add the ja jang sauce; mix. Add the sugar, onions and cabbage and stir-fry, mixing, to desired crispiness. Make a smooth paste of cornstarch and water. Add to stir-fry mixture. Add broth, stirring, to form a semi-thick gravy. Place pasta in four bowls and pour sauce evenly over noodles. Garnish with cucumber.

Makes 4 servings.