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Virtually anything that once lived can be put on a compost heap. Woody things like shrubs, prunings and stalks should be finely chopped first. The greater the variety of plant debris you can introduce, the better your compost will be. The compost will contain not only the major plant elements, but also a wide variety of important trace elements (far more trace elements than any chemical fertilizer you can buy). Let the following list be a guide to encourage you to use your imagination in putting a wide variety of materials into your compost pile.

C/N ratio:

Activators:

The correct balance between carbon and nitrogen (the C/N ratio) must be maintained in the heap. Many plants, particularly older ones, have a lot of carbon in them and microorganisms need nitrogen to break it down. Some say you can help the process by adding an "activator" layer when you build your compost by adding SMALL layers of garden soil to "inoculate" the heap with the right microorganisms.

Warmth:

A healthy compost heap should reach temperatures of 90-150 degrees Fahrenheit at center. This heat will kill weed seeds and sterilize your compost.

Moisture:

Compost heaps should be moist but not wet. Wet any dry material which you add to the heap. To keep it moist, water the heap in dry periods of summer. Protect heaps from excessive rain. Rain will "leach" the nutrients you are trying to save, like nitrogen and phosphates.

Aeration:

The compost heap must have air. Clay pipes or bricks at the base of the heap help air circulation. A compost heap should be 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet, so that air can always get to the center. Airless conditions encourage anaerobic bacteria which putrefy material. Turning your compost several times in the first two weeks will add air and allow all material to spend time at the center and rot properly.

Making the compost pile:

Aerobic composting methods vary from simply raking the material into a pile in the open to confining it in some manner, and whether to turn and mix the material or not. Anything that was once living can be broken down by other living organisms into its simplest elements. Your compost pile should be constructed in a way that allows this natural process to happen more quickly.

Location:

Now we get to the actual mechanics of constructing and managing the compost pile. Your compost pile should be placed directly on the ground to facilitate the entrance of worms and other beneficial organisms from the soil. Place your compost pile or bin near the growing beds to save time and energy in moving your compost to the garden. If you prefer to use a compost bin over just a pile, there are many ready-made types you can buy. Or you can build your own. Choose a site on level ground (if possible) that does not use any precious sunlight, which is better used for growing plants. A shady spot will keep the compost from drying out rapidly in the hot summer months. Locate the compost near a water source, as water will be needed when building and turning the pile. Allow space for storage of materials that will move into the pile, if you can spare it.

Shredding:

In general, the smaller the pieces of organic matter that compose the pile, the faster the decomposition process will be (the microorganisms have more surface area to work on). One way to inexpensively shred your material is to run your lawn mower over it. Work the material in small sections, directing the mower discharge to a convenient area. Leaves in particular should get at least some shredding treatment because they tend to mat into clumps in the pile. The material should not be much smaller that 1/2-1 inch. As long as there is some finer material along with the coarser material, you won't need to shred too much.

Building in layers:

Instructions on building a compost pile often advise putting the materials down in layers. This is a good idea for several reasons:

1. It makes keeping track of the materials and the approximate C / N ratio easier.

2. It is also easier to ensure that you put down a mix of coarse and fine-textured materials, so as not to pack the pile, which leads to anaerobic conditions. There is nothing sacred about the sequence, proportions or contents of each layer, as they will all be thoroughly mixed in the turning process. However, the first layer should be composed of some fairly absorbent materials to catch any excess liquid (crushed leaves and/or sawdust is good for this). Make this first layer 5-10 inches deep.

MANAGING THE COMPOST PILE

Temperature:

After the pile has been made, let it sit for a day or two. Take a temperature reading from the center of the pile. If you don't have a thermometer, just stick your hand in the middle of the pile. A temperature of 90-140 degrees indicates that the microbial life is flourishing. It is important to achieve as high a temperature as possible to be sure of killing all undesirable elements (pathogens, weed seeds and insects). If the temperature is lower, or not rising at all, the microorganisms are starving for nitrogen. Immediately mix in sources high in nitrogen, blood meal, lots of manure or grass clippings.

The smell of ammonia coming from the pile is a sign of too much nitrogen and you need to add more carbonaceous material (sawdust, dried leaves, etc.). If the pile smells foul at any time, it has probably gone anaerobic. You will need to turn it much more frequently to get oxygen into it, perhaps daily for awhile. If the pile hasn't heated up by three to four days, and it isn't too wet, you may have to add more nitrogen or water or both. The experienced composter will strive to manage the pile so that few odors are produced; smells usually indicate a loss of valuable nutrients.

The population of microorganisms inhabiting the pile changes constantly as temperature varies; each group performing its own functions in the decomposition process. With all parts of the pile eventually passing through the high heat of the pile, the weed seeds, plant pathogens are broken down and destroyed. The temperature and speed of the decay are also a deterrent to the attraction of rats or other vermin after the kitchen garbage. After the pile reaches its highest temperatures (lasting for a week or two), it starts to cool slowly. This is not a cause for concern, as it allows some of the other organisms to get into the act; the fungi and some types of bacteria operate at the lower temperatures, within the cooler areas of the pile. The compost pile is a sort of microbe city, teeming with one population explosion after another of various decomposer organisms.

Turning:

Turning is probably the most often heard complaint of the composter. Well, you don't have to turn your compost. If you are willing to wait many times longer than you have to for a lower quality product, then just pile your materials in the bin and wait. In such piles, decomposition proceeds largely through the action of various fungi (often producing a recognizable mushroom-like smell).

To ensure that aerobic decomposition takes place (high internal temperatures are achieved to kill pathogens, weed seeds, insect larvae, etc.) and to produce the best-quality product in the shortest amount of time, you turn your compost. It's that simple. After the pile has been sitting for a few days, turn it with a pitchfork or spading fork; shovels just don't seem to work as well, but will do if you have no fork.

The manner in which you turn your compost is important. An effort should be made to turn the top and outside edges into the center of the pile or bin, which leaves the center of the pile evenly distributed through the compost. This is done every time the pile is turned to make sure that all sections of the pile go through the center, where the temperature is the highest. You may need to add grass clippings on top to cover any exposed kitchen waste. For best and fastest results, the compost should be turned every few days (at least twice a week for the first two weeks, when the important high temperatures are present; afterward, if you like, you can get by with turning every one to two weeks).

Inspection:

The turning process assures that oxygen is available to keep the pile aerobic and that all areas of the pile pass through the hot center, and it provides the opportunity to examine the pile for moisture content and odor. If extreme odors are present, correct as explained above. The material should be wet enough to squeeze together and look damp, but dry enough to crumble apart easily when released from pressure. A well made compost pile will yield steam as it is turned (indicating the high internal temperatures). Turning will cool the pile down for a few hours, but temperatures will quickly rise again in a good compost mix.

When should you make compost? All the time. Your household is always producing waste. When outside temperatures are cooler, the compost will take longer to make, but is still worth making. Protect the pile from winter rains.

COMPOST BINS

Although you don't need a compost bin to make compost, it does make for a neater compost area and will generally provide for quicker decomposition by keeping materials evenly distributed. Compost bins can be purchased at most garden centers or you can easily construct your own bin. Compost bins generally don't have a bottom and have three sides, or have four sides with one side that can be opened for easy access. Bins should ideally be at least three cubic feet in size. You may also want to have more than one bin so that you can be working on a new batch of compost while the other is full and is busy decomposing. Bins are typically made of wood, but can also be made of cement, brick, plastic, wire fencing, or whatever strikes your fancy.

Quick checklist:

1. Select a site to put your pile or bin.

2. Build your pile or bin.

3. Feed your pile organic materials in a 30:1 carbon-nitrogen ratio.

4. Alternate layers of green and browns.

5. 40-60 percent moisture throughout the pile.

6. Good air flow through the pile.